Let's Just Say I've Been to the Mountains!

Friday, February 8th Beehive Tombs and Wadi Dam - Oman

A beautiful day to be out and about.  The social group known as Al Ain Weekends organized a 2 day trip to Oman to hike and explore the striking geology.  It was truly breathtaking.  Day 2 we hiked to Jebel Shams and this actually took my breath away.  It was a gorgeous area with a great deal of history, but the "hike" was more like a rock climbing experience for me. 
Let's begin with Friday's excursion to the Beehive Tombs in Al Ayn. There are 21 tombs in varying state of repair, lined up along the upper edge of the ridge with Jebel Misht in the background. (Jebel means mountain) The tombs are believed to date back to early 3rd millennium BC and are built from local limestone.  Each tomb measures 5 meters across with a triangular entrance.  As it was mentioned while there, "we have caskets, and they had tombs." Bodies were placed inside and when necessary remains were moved to the side or back to make room for new "residents."

From there we traveled a little further to an oasis where we had a picnic lunch. We also toured a town made of mud.  A collection of abandoned homes constructed from mud with a mixture of shell.  Doors still hung in their frames, but I am unsure of when the town was constructed.

 

 

Our final stop for the day was Wadi Dam. We walked for awhile and actually make it across the dam as there was no water there.  The group that toured here two years ago told us that they actually swam in the waters that were flowing over the dam.  What I saw was a far cry from that.  There was one pool that didn't appear to be very deep.  There was water following into the pool and fish were visible from the rock were I sat to take pictures.  Two members of the group were brave enough to jump into the cold water for a brief dip.

 

 

 

Last stop of the night was our hotel.  A hot shower and lights out for me.  It was a long day in the sun and I was asleep by 7:30.  I felt like I was back in elementary school, but I knew the alarm would be going off early the next morning.

Another beautiful day.  After a buffet breakfast at the hotel and a quick check out we drove a short distance up the road to Bahla Fort.  It was pretty impressive from the road and we all started taking pictures almost immediately.  Unfortunately, it was closed.  Hours of Operations were Thursdays and Fridays.  Bummer! We did learn from our fearless leader and trip organizer that the fort was orginally built in the 3rd millennium BC, however, it has been under renovation recently.  This area also promotes a souk and pottery factories that will have to be visited at a later date.  Way to much to get in this particular trip.

On the road up to Jebel Shams and As Sab Cliff Walk, we stopped briefly at Wadi Ghul to view two abandoned villages. Below was a productive oasis and fields where the locals grow produce to market. We, along with several other sightseers snapped a few pictures before we continued to the top of the mountain. The road was a winding one which begins paved and then turns into dirt, rocks and lots of bumps.  Now I understand the need for a SUV.  We arrived at the top in an area called Al Khitaym. There is a family that lives in two dwellings at the top of this mountain. They come out at the sight of hikers to sell their hand woven rugs, blankets, bracelets and key chains. They were also selling "fossils," but to me they just looked like rocks.  I didn't buy anything because that meant I would have had to carry it.

Now keep in mind that the email informing us of this hike said: Not for those who are afraid of heights. I don't believe I have a fear, but I'm not one who will willing go out on a cliff if I don't have too.  So, I asked some friends at work who had done this very hike and they both told me the heights not too bad.  What I didn't ask was what is the walk like...

The email also stated and I quote: This is a relatively level walk with a slight downhill going in and the reverse coming back.  Because of the height of about 6000 feet it tends to be cooler then at the bottom. What the email didn't say was that the donkey path which began as dirt turns into a conglomeration of rocks in various shapes and sizes.  The larger ones were beneficial to me so I could grip them as I stepped up and over the medium and smaller sized rocks. Did I mention this was a 5 hour hike?  We were walking along this cliff, or death wish, as I later began calling it in my mind to the village of As Sab which was built under a rock overhang on the opposite side of our starting point. It was about 3.5 km along the west flank of the canyon below known as Wadi Nakhr.  This area has been nicknamed as the "Grand Canyon Walk." Maybe I should have read this email a little more closely.  The total hike should take between 4 and 5 hours. Noticed I said should!

The village was the home of about 15 families who left just over 30 years ago and moved to Khitaym and Nakhar and now Ghul. It was well protected against enemies and had a good water supply.  The houses that remain are primarily built of stone.  There are eight different crops grown on the terraces above the village and dangle down the cliff. The water pool that supplied them is also located above he village and fronts a cave.

 

So here is where my story gets interesting.  I am second in line as we depart the starting point and we are traveling at a pretty good clip. I am impressed with myself after the first turn when I notice there is no railing between the path and the canyon below.  I am not exaggerating when I say the path was a mere foot away from the drop off and in some places you climbed over a boulder that took part of your body over the side.  I was comfortable, wasn't focused on the height because I was too concerned with the path that had now turned into a rock conglomeration.  Needless to say my pace slowly considerable and before I knew it I was at the end of the pack with the woman designated to bring up the rear.  She was the official sweeper and took her job very seriously.  Her finger was wrapped around that walky talky ready for action.  Did I mention we were asked to sign a release form before we left the UAE?   Yes, that should have clicked in my brain, but I am a little slower as I age. Anyway...we were about 2/3 of the way to the village when disaster struck.  I am gently watching my steps, but misjudged my footing and down I go.  Both knees hit the rocks hard. One hand goes down and lucky I don't move any further, but when I lift my head up I notice I am head first down the side of the mountain.  Like I say, luckily I hit the rock and didn't move.  I manage to right myself and sit for a moment to regain some composure and wonder if someone wasn't watching over me at that very moment.  We had passed an area where tradition dictates that hikers add a stone to some exsisting pyramids for good luck.  I swear I added a stone and that may have been my saving grace.  Now I am up on my feet and surveying the damages.  I feel my legs shaking and my confidence has taken a harder blow. Now I am paranoid about the remaining portion of the hike and doubting myself with each advancement.  One knee is bleeding, but I am ignoring it while I imagine the pretty shades of blue it will soon be turning.  Naturally, all the parties around are asking me if I am okay and want to continue.  Finally, I know when I am beaten and I mumble it's best that I turn back.  Without hesitation the sweeper calls ahead to tell them that she and I will be turning back. There are words of encouragement and reassurances that we are almost there, but I knew that once there the distance back has now become greater.  I shake my head and begin singing to myself "What Doesn't Kill You Makes You Stronger" and reminding myself to put one foot in front of the other.  The trek back is painful and we make frequent stops along the way.  Sally, the sweeper is trying to make light of it all, reassuring me that I will get there the next time.  In true form I am agreeing with her and nodding my head when in reality I am thinking "there is no freaking way you will every get me up here again!" We are passed several times by members of our group and others.  One twosome of guys walk by and we exchange greetings. He is wearing a Boston Red Sox cap and tells us he is grateful to be on this path and not back in Beantown which was knee deep in snow according to Facebook postings he had read before he began his hike.  Then his friend starts laughing and says that can add another day to their vacation as a result of the snow because their office was closed on Friday.  They wave good bye and continue on. 

 

 

Finally, we are can see the last bend on the path, unfortunately it is all up hill.  My thighs are burning and one arm is sun burnt, but I have to keep going because I drove to Oman with a family of three and my bag is in their car with my car keys and I have to go to work tomorrow, and still have to write my lesson plans....this is what I am thinking about as I try to get myself off this god damn mountain.  It's no wonder I don't sleep at night, I can't turn off my mind.

 

The other 22 individuals are waiting for us.  For a moment I felt like I had just crossed the finish line of the Boston Marathon, except rather than flashbulbs or clapping spectators, I was greeted by a goat that proceeded to following me to the car!  As I briefly summarized this story for my sister, she offered this..."at least you did it." Yes, I did!